How to Lay Floor Tiles Like a Pro: A Step-by-Step Guide

Learning how to lay floor tiles the right way can save you time, money and frustration. Without proper prep and technique, it’s easy to end up with uneven tiles, messy grout lines or wasted materials.

Whether you’re a first time DIYer, a professional tiler or working on a construction project, this guide takes you through each step clearly and simply. From preparing the subfloor and choosing the right tools to laying, grouting and sealing, you’ll find everything you need for a clean, long-lasting finish.

No matter your experience level, this guide will help you achieve a high-quality finish that lasts.

Tools and Materials Checklist for Laying Floor Tiles

Before getting started, make sure you’ve got everything you need on hand. Whether you’re a weekend renovator or a professional tiler on site, having the right tiling tools and materials sorted upfront makes the job smoother and helps avoid delays.

Also, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions on your adhesive, grout, and sealers, and check any relevant Australian building codes, especially for waterproofing in wet areas.

Essential Tools

- Measuring Tape
- Chalk Line or Pencil for Marking Layout
- Spirit Level or Laser Level
- Tile Cutter or Wet Saw
- Tile Nippers (for detailed cuts)
- Notched Trowel
- Buckets (for mixing adhesive and grout)
- Grout Float
- Tile Spacers
- Grout Sponge
- Rubber Mallet (for gently positioning tiles)
- Caulking Gun (for applying silicone caulk)
- Utility Knife (for trimming underlay or packaging)
- Drill with Mixing Paddle Attachment (for mixing adhesive or leveller)

Safety Equipment

- Safety Glasses
- Gloves
- Dust Mask
- Knee Pads

Materials

- Floor Tiles
- Tile Adhesive (Thin-set Mortar)
- Grout (Sanded or Unsanded, depending on joint width)
- Tile Sealer (if using natural stone or unglazed tiles)
- Primer or Floor Leveller (if required for surface prep)
- Silicone Caulk (for expansion gaps or where tiles meet walls)
- Aluminium Angles or Tile Trims (for clean edges and doorway finishes)

Step-by-step Process for Laying Floor Tiles

Tiling a floor isn’t difficult when you know what to do and when to do it. The process becomes manageable when it’s broken into clear, simple steps. Below, you’ll find a complete breakdown to guide you from preparation to the final clean-up.

Step 1: Inspect and Prepare the Subfloor

Before laying tiles, check that the subfloor is flat, dry, and structurally sound. Use a spirit level or straight edge to spot dips or humps. High spots can be ground down, while low or uneven areas should be filled with a floor leveller. If you skip this step, you risk loose or drummy tiles, cracking, or uneven finishes, so it’s well worth doing it right.

Step 2: Clean and Prime the Floor

Once the surface is level, give it a thorough clean. Sweep and vacuum to remove dust and debris, then wipe it down with a damp sponge and let it dry completely. If the floor is porous or previously untreated, apply a suitable tile primer made for cement-based surfaces. This helps the adhesive grip better and ensures your tiles stay firmly in place.

Step 3: Choose the Right Tiles

Not all tiles are created equal when it comes to ease of installation. Ceramic tiles are easier to cut than porcelain, and non-rectified tiles are more forgiving on slightly uneven surfaces. Some tiles, such as natural stone or those with specialty finishes, may need to be sealed before installation to prevent staining or damage.

Choosing the right type of tile for your space and skill level can make the job smoother and help you avoid unnecessary frustration. Also, be sure to order around 10-15% extra tiles to cover cuts, breakage, and waste.

Step 4: Plan Your Tile Layout

Before you start tiling, take a few minutes to plan how the tiles will sit in the room. Measure the length and width of the space, then mark the centre by snapping two chalk lines that cross in the middle. This gives you a starting point and helps divide the floor into sections so your tiles stay straight. Planning this way helps avoid narrow cuts near walls, which can look messy and are harder to work with.

Step 5: Dry Lay the Tiles

With your layout marked, place a few tiles on the floor without any adhesive. This dry run lets you see how they fit and whether the spacing looks right. Use tile spacers while doing this to check your gaps. It’s a simple step, but it gives you the chance to fix any alignment issues before the adhesive goes down.

Step 6: Cut Tiles to Fit

When you reach the edges of the room or areas around fixtures, you’ll need to cut tiles to size. Measure the space carefully and mark where you need to cut. For straight lines, use a basic tile cutter. If you’re working around corners or curves, a small cutting tool or grinder can help.

Step 7: Choose the Right Notched Trowel

The size of your trowel affects how much adhesive goes under each tile. A smaller tile usually needs a 6mm trowel, while medium tiles work best with a 10mm one. If you’re using large tiles, go for a 12mm notch to give better support. If you’re unsure, check the tile box or ask your local tile shop to make sure you’re using the right size.

Step 8: Mix and Apply Tile Adhesive

Mix your tile adhesive according to the instructions on the packaging. Only prepare what you can use within 30–40 minutes, as it can set quickly.

To apply adhesive:

Mix the adhesive to a thick and smooth consistency, like peanut butter.
Spread a small amount onto the floor using the flat side of a notched trowel.
Comb through the adhesive using the notched side at a 45° angle, always in a single direction to avoid air pockets. Do not use swirl patterns.
Work in small sections so the adhesive stays fresh while you lay the tiles.
Keep in mind that high humidity or cool temperatures can extend drying time, so always refer to the product label.

Step 9: Lay the Tiles

Once the adhesive is down, begin laying your tiles carefully and consistently, following these steps:

Start along your chalk layout lines for accuracy.
Press each tile firmly into the adhesive with a slight twist to help it bond.
For large tiles, apply a thin layer of adhesive to the back (this is called back-buttering) to ensure full contact.
Insert tile spacers between each tile to maintain even grout lines.
Leave a small expansion gap around the edges of the floor to allow for natural movement.
Use a spirit level regularly and run your hand over the tiles to check for any uneven spots or lippage.
Every few tiles, lift one up to check for full adhesive coverage. If there’s not enough, switch to a larger notched trowel or back-butter the tile.
Wipe away any excess adhesive before it dries.

Step 10: Let Adhesive Cure

Once the tiles are in place, let the adhesive dry completely. Most adhesives need 24 to 48 hours to cure, but check the product label for the exact time. Avoid walking on the tiles during this period, as any movement can affect how well they bond to the floor.

Step 11: Apply Grout Between Tiles

After the adhesive is fully dry and spacers are removed, follow these steps:

Remove tile spacers and clean out any debris between the joints.
Mix the grout to a thick, paste-like consistency following the manufacturer’s guide.
Use a rubber float held at a 45° angle to press the grout into the gaps.
Work diagonally across the tiles to push grout deep into the joints and avoid pulling it back out.
Use sanded grout for wider joints and unsanded grout for narrower ones (under 3 mm).
Wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge as you go.
Clean any grout haze from the tile surface within 30 to 60 minutes to avoid stubborn residue.

Step 12: Clean and Seal

Once the grout is fully cured (usually 24–72 hours), give the tiles a thorough clean to remove any haze. Use a grout haze remover if needed. Apply a grout sealer if recommended, especially in wet or high-traffic areas, to protect the joints and prevent staining. Porcelain tiles usually don’t need sealing, but natural stone does. Sealing helps prevent stains and makes cleaning easier over time.

Step 13: Apply Caulk (If Necessary)

Where tiles meet walls, bathtubs, or benches, use flexible silicone instead of grout. The application of silicone helps seal any movement joints and prevents water from getting behind the tiles. Apply a steady bead of silicone, smooth it with a damp finger or tool, and wipe away any excess before it dries.

Step 14: Final Touches and Cleanup

Once all sealing and the application of silicone is finished, check that the tiles are level, the joints are fully sealed, and there are no gaps or missed spots.

Install aluminium tile trims or angles around doorways or exposed edges for a clean, professional finish.
Give your tools a proper clean, pack away materials, and clear any debris from the workspace.
To keep your floor looking its best, establish a regular cleaning routine and if your tiles are natural stone, reapply sealer in high traffic or wet areas as needed.

Pro Tips for Laying Tiles

Getting great results with floor tiles comes down to the small details. These practical tips help you work faster, avoid costly mistakes and achieve a clean, professional finish.

1. Work in Small Sections

Tiling the whole floor at once might seem faster, but it often leads to rushed work and drying adhesive. By working in small, manageable sections, you stay in control of your layout and give yourself time to get each tile placement just right.

2. Mix Tiles from Different Boxes

Tiles can have slight colour or tone variations between batches. Mixing from multiple boxes as you go keeps the overall look even and avoids obvious patches, especially when working on larger floor-tiling areas.

3. Use Tile Spacers

Spacers help keep your grout lines straight and evenly spaced, which gives your layout a neat and consistent look. Skipping this step can lead to crooked lines, uneven gaps, and more time spent fixing avoidable issues.

4. Regularly Check Alignment

Good alignment makes a huge difference in how professional your tiles look. Use a chalk line and a spirit level to check as you go, especially after every few tiles, to make sure your floor tiles stay straight and flat.

5. Don’t rush

Rushing through a tiling job can lead to uneven tiles, messy grout lines or poor adhesion. Take the time to follow each step properly, allow for drying times, and focus on getting it right rather than just getting it done.

Common Mistakes to Avoid During Floor Tile Installation

Even experienced tilers can hit problems when working with tricky layouts or unfamiliar surfaces. Whether you’re a DIYer or a professional, keeping these common mistakes in mind will help you avoid delays, rework or tile failure down the line.

1. Skipping surface preparation

Laying tiles on an unprepared surface can lead to uneven floors or poor adhesion. Always clean the subfloor, check for level, and apply primer or levelling compound if needed.

2. Not using tile spacers consistently

Tile spacers help maintain even grout lines and a clean, professional finish. Without them, your floor tiling can end up crooked and ruin the appearance of your tiled floor.

3. Walking on tiles too soon

Tiles need 24 to 48 hours to properly bond with the adhesive. Walking on them too early can shift the tiles or weaken the bond, affecting the long-term durability of your tiling floor.

4. Using the wrong adhesive or mix

Using the wrong tile adhesive or not mixing it properly can affect how well your tiles bond. Make sure your adhesive suits your tile type and follow the instructions carefully.

5. Forgetting to seal grout (if required)

Some grouts, especially in wet areas, need to be sealed to prevent moisture and stains. If you skip this step, your tiled floor could look patchy or become harder to clean over time.

6. Failing to do a dry layout

A dry layout helps you plan your pattern and avoid awkward tile cuts along edges or corners. Taking time here saves hassle later and helps you create a smarter, more balanced tiling floor layout.

Want to learn about tile laying patterns? Check out our blog post for expert tips and ideas.

7. Not using a level or checking for lippage

Lippage happens when tile edges sit at different heights. This not only looks bad but can also be a tripping hazard. Use a spirit level often to make sure your tiling process stays smooth and flat.

When to Hire a Licensed Tiler or Specialist

Some tiling jobs are best left to the pros. If your project involves waterproofing, large-format tiles or intricate patterns, a licensed tiler ensures everything meets the code, looks clean and lasts long term. The examples below show where professional help is worth it.

1. Rooms requiring waterproofing (e.g., bathrooms or laundry)

Waterproofing is a critical step in wet areas and must meet Australian standards. A licensed tiler will ensure the membrane is applied correctly to prevent leaks and water damage down the track.

2. Installing large-format tiles or natural stone

Large tiles and natural stone look stunning but require precise handling. These materials are heavier, harder to cut, and less forgiving of surface imperfections, making professional installation a smart choice.

3. High-end or decorative tile patterns (mosaics, inlays)

Detailed patterns like mosaics or inlays need accuracy and skill to line up perfectly. A professional can help bring complex designs to life without waste or rework, especially when tiling a floor with a feature area.

4. Subfloor requires levelling or screeding

If your subfloor isn’t flat or smooth, tiles can crack or shift over time. Levelling or screeding should be done before any floor tiling, and a pro can assess and fix it properly for a lasting result.

Curious about how to use floor levelling compound? Visit our blog for expert advice and tips.

5. Complex layouts or large spaces

Bigger areas or tricky layouts often involve more planning, cuts, and time. A professional tiler has the tools and experience to keep everything straight, consistent, and within budget, especially when managing the cost of laying floor tiles.

Why Choose TFO for Your Floor Tiling Project

Tiling starts with choosing the right product, and that’s where we come in. At Tile Factory Outlet, we stock the largest range of tiles in Sydney, with more than 700,000m² of tiles ready for immediate dispatch from our Sydney warehouse.

Whether you’re renovating a home or managing a commercial build, we offer unbeatable access to the latest styles from over 150 global manufacturers. That means more choice, better pricing, and faster turnarounds without compromising on quality.

On top of that, our team supports everyone from DIYers to developers with expert advice, take-home samples, and tailored solutions to suit your budget, timeline and design brief.

Shop online or visit our Smithfield showroom to get started!

How to Lay Floor Tiles FAQs

Where to Start Tiling a Floor?

Start tiling from the centre of the room for a balanced layout and fewer awkward edge cuts. Find the centre by measuring and marking halfway points, then use a chalk line to draw two intersecting lines as your guide. This helps keep your tiles aligned and the layout symmetrical.

How Long After Laying Floor Tiles Can You Walk on Them?

Wait 24 to 48 hours before walking on newly laid tiles so the adhesive can fully cure. Stepping on them too soon can shift tiles and weaken the bond. For best results, always follow the drying time recommended on the adhesive packaging.

What is the Best Pattern to Lay Floor Tiles?

The best tile pattern depends on your space and style. A straight lay is simple, clean, and perfect for beginners. For more visual interest, go with a herringbone or running bond pattern, both look great and work well in narrow or feature areas.

What is the Cost of Laying Floor Tiles?

Tiling costs usually range from $60 to $150 per square metre, including materials and labour. Prices vary based on tile type, layout complexity, and whether it’s DIY or professional. Larger or natural stone tiles often cost more due to extra prep and cutting.

Should I Lay Floor Tiles in a Horizontal or Vertical Pattern?

You should lay tiles based on the shape of the room. Horizontal tiles make wide spaces feel larger, while vertical layouts help elongate narrow rooms. Also, consider the direction of natural light, it can enhance the look depending on the tile orientation.

How Long After Laying Floor Tiles Can You Grout?

You can grout tiles after 24 to 48 hours, once the adhesive is fully dry. Rushing this step can cause loose tiles or weak grout joints. Always follow the product instructions to avoid long-term issues.

How to Clean Floor Tiles After Laying?

Start by removing dust with a vacuum or broom. Use warm water and a mild detergent to wipe the tiles with a soft cloth or sponge. Rinse and dry thoroughly, and if there’s grout haze, use a tile safe cleaner and avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive tools.